This speakeasy is named for an 1896 law meant to curb New Yorkers’ liquor consumption. Past a door buzzer and an intimidating host is a windowless space, decorated in antiques, but warning: no bar to belly up to. The cocktail list is an extensive as they come, including classics like the Manhattan and Negroni, as well as their variations and much more. The Old Cuban (rum, champagne, mint and bitters) hits like a mojito with something to celebrate, and the velvety Japanese, powered by brandy and orgeat (almond-and-rosewater syrup), is strong enough to send one straight home after just one. Arrive early to land one of the private tables surrounded by velvet couches and black gauze curtains: each comes equipped with a wall buzzer to call your waitress when you need her and keep her away when you don’t.
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