Certain restaurants, much like people, possess the gift of never being out of fashion. Sant Ambroeus is among these. Since the original opened in 1936 in Milan, then made its way to Madison Avenue in 1982, the restaurants have enjoyed a constant flow of fashionable customers popping in for lunch, coffee, dinner, or anything in between. Their newest location, on the border of Soho and Nolita, already feels like a classic. Robert McKinley, known for designing hotspots like Ruschmeyer’s and The Surf Lodge in Montauk, lent his deft touch to the former Caffe Falai, outfitting the space with 60s and 70s Milanese flare. Those orange banquettes, with a sleek Midcentury Modern profile, line the main dining room, along with dark wood tables that match slatted wall paneling.
Chef de Cuisine Marco Barbisotti, a native of Milan, is turning out a menu that will look familiar to devotees of the other locations. Tuck into signatures pastas like spaghetti neri alla carbonara, with leeks, pancetta, and a poached egg, or trofie (a short, twisted pasta) with lamb ragu. There are also classic Milanese mains including a veal chop, and a number of meal-size salads as a lighter option. Or just pop in for morning coffee and a ham-and-cheese croissant, or maybe an early evening aperitivo drink. Just as it never goes out of fashion, Sant Ambroeus feels right any time of day.
For more on Sant Ambroeus Soho, click here to read our feature on GrandLifeHotels.com.