Simplicity at its most savory describes Peasant. Enter this dungeoness enoteca and you may feel as though you fell into a rabbit hole: In the middle of Manhattan, a turn of the century inn? Candlelit with lots of exposed brick and stone, the intent is to echo the peasantry of former times. As such, Peasant’s menu revolves around the hearth: the brick pizza oven rules this roost. And out of it comes piping pleasantries like the succulent hen with herb and bread stuffing, rotisserie suckling pig with fingerling potatoes and a glorious Pizza Napoletana with anchovies, black olives and capers. The atmosphere is communal; we recommend dining with a group and sharing a great bottle of an Italian red.  Emerge from this fiery NoLita restaurant and you may renounce trendy nouveau fusions and molecular gastronomy for good—or at least, until tomorrow night.