Several years ago, there was a clash between the chef/owners of New York’s famous Pearl Oyster Bar on Cornelia Street. Mary Redding left and started her own seafood restaurant a few blocks away, and the city was lucky to get another West Village spot for amazing, to-die-for lobster rolls. The sunny corner space only has ten tables and a stainless-steel counter, so seating is limited and offered on a first-come-first-serve basis. There is always a wait, but the fresh seafood is so sublime that this should be no surprise. The lobster roll is supreme simplicity: titanic hunks of supremely fresh lobster mingled with Hellmann’s, a fine dice of celery and a pinch of chopped scallion, all shoved into a pillowy bun. And the mouthwatering result is everything most lobster aficionados travel to Maine or Sagaponick for: rich, buttery seafood enveloped in an airy, fluffy bun.
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