For the past few seasons, Mandy Coon, designer, DJ and friend of Grandlife (she designed dresses for the Soho Grand cocktail servers which debuted in Spring 2012) has been quietly refining her sinister yet ladylike womenswear.

For the label’s Spring 2013 runway show at Milk Studios, it was all about a balance of edgy and sweet- with standouts in luxe black and white leather, some pieces embossed to look like exotic skin and lasercut with precision, with others embellished with zipper and mesh detail.

The show opened with an expected leather heavy look, complete with an oversized version of Coon’s popular black leather bunny bag on a metallic chain, then transitioned into black and white looks, geometric purple and magenta prints, bright explosions of pink and purple silk color eveningwear and voluminous ruffles for black and white evening looks that bloomed across the body from wide metallic and black belted waists.

The ode to ladylike luxe (A-line, voluminous ruffles and lean minimalist column gowns) was balanced with whispery tough touches in the form of tailored zipper separates or leather harnesses, their thin straps floating over silk bodices.

Judging from the audible shouts of appreciation that came from the audience well before the designer took a bow in a floaty black dress, this was the label’s strongest and most accessible collection to date. Bravo, Mandy!

Find Deanne Yee full time on her blog: Dreamsequins