MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA S/S ’13 PRESENTATION

How rare and wonderful it is to find oneself genuinely excited about a fashion brand, and yet that was the feeling yesterday at the Maison Martin Margiela MM6 runway show—the first-ever of its kind but not, thankfully, its last.

Frenchmen in calf-length white lab coats and an elusively intoxicating scent (Margiela’s “Untitled”) wafted through the Chelsea loft where we saw both draped and constructed volumes walk yesterday.

It was a collection made especially for the new location that just opened on Bleecker Street. Up to now, Margiela stores and boutiques have carried the diffusion line, but the Bleecker shop will be the world’s only freestanding MM6 store until MM6 launches in Paris this winter.

Look for it to carry deconstructed military style expressed through undone neck bindings, inside-out dart details. It’s a raw-edged reinterpretation of military style, an attitude of enlargement; think parachute volumes, bonded silks, turned-up hems, cinching and criss-crossed drawstrings. Leather, clear PVC and faux denim textures added dimension and weight.

Accessories abounded: A Marsupial tote bag (cult following, anyone?). Pastel espadrilles and fluorescent wedges. Camo high-top sneakers—they’ll sell out instantaneously.

All would have been most welcome later that night as we swept out of our Bentley (we’re carrying on our international theme for the night) and into Andre Saraiva’s little jewel Le Baron for an intimate gathering with friends. Half the crowd spoke only French—at least, that’s as much as they’d whisper in our ear. It’s really just as well. All the better for dancing, darling.